November 2008 - What Does "Organic" Really Mean?

Confusion still exists over the exact meaning of the word "organic" and, for the purposes of this column, we'll discuss its meaning in relationship to food. Since November begins the holiday season and poultry is a traditional main course on many family tables, let's talk turkey . . . or chicken.

In past years on the farm, I raised and sold organic eggs and organic broilers, laying hens and chicks, as well as herbs and produce. The farm was certified organic, as was the feed fed to the animals. "Certified organic" on the label means that the producer successfully adhered to a specific set of standards to produce, harvest, process and package the product. A certifying agency or organization is the overseer, and provides not only the standards and paperwork, but also hires an independent inspector to visit the farm. The inspector checks farm records to assess a complete audit trail of each crop or product, visually inspects everything associated with the crop or product (including pasture, outbuildings, water sources, buffer zones, etc.), and reports back to the certifier any deficiencies needing improvement. A rather rigorous undertaking, the certification process provides knowledge to the producer and a label to the product which, in turn, offers assurance of a cleaner and maybe greener product for the consumer.

My point is this: When offered a dozen farm eggs, or fresh-dug potatoes, or a sack of just-ground cornmeal from a friend or a neighbor, sometimes the offering is accompanied by the statement, "And it's organic." I beg to differ. Because it came out of someone's backyard and not the supermarket doesn't make it organic. Because no vaccines or antibiotics were given to the chickens doesn't make it organic. Because no side dressing with 5-10-10 chemical fertilizer took place doesn't make it organic. Lack of dusting or spraying for bugs doesn't make it organic.

What DOES make it organic? Let's look at chickens. Farmer Dell cares for 3 dozen Rhode Island Red hens; has a nice, roomy henhouse, more than enough clean nest boxes, changes litter each week, gives fresh water daily, and allows the hens to roam and scratch for seeds and bugs each afternoon. However, he has never had his public water supply tested and he buys the least expensive layer mash he can find at the local seed and feed store. You can bet the feed contains synthetics you wouldn't put on your table with which to season your food. Why would you want it in your eggs or meat?

Garden crops present similar challenges - did you start with certified organic seed potatoes or corn? How do you know the seed has not been genetically modified? You can't tell from looking at it. Is the corn seed pink? If the seed is colored, that means a chemical has been applied, to prevent fungus, enhance germination, etc. That's not organic. How about the four truckloads of manure you tilled in last fall? What sort of medications, wormers, feed did the animals ingest? What persists in the manure that might be taken up by the crop?

One need not be certified to grow organically. One needs awareness of all facets of growing, whether plants or animals, from birth or seed to harvest, then post-harvest to consumer. The reason I only eat eggs that come from my own birds is that I know what went into the chickens to make the eggs. I don't eat meat from the store unless it carries the certified organic label. I either raise the poultry or garden crops myself, or obtain the food from folks whose standards and ethics in production are similar to mine.

Search the Internet for a certified organic poultry producer and treat yourself to a delicious, nutritious turkey or chicken feast this Thanksgiving. Better yet, find a local poultry grower whose mindset meets yours, and enjoy unbeatable freshness and quality while supporting your community's growth.