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KNOWING NATURE
By Bill Church
April 2009 -
Making Rope
This skill can come in handy if you
need something tied up or you're caught in a bind!
Gathering material
Just about any strong, flexible fiber
can be used to produce good cordage. The dried inner
bark of most trees will supply you with workable raw
material. It's best to look for trees with dead bark,
and strip off long sections of the fibrous cambium layer
between the wood and the outer bark.
If you're in a true survival
situation, you can even strip sections of the inner bark
from living trees and dry them. Be sure, though, to take
only a few thin strips from any one trunk (don't cut all
the way around it... doing so can kill the tree). Should
you have trouble separating the inner from the outer
bark, just soak the strips in warm or boiling water
until the fibers come apart easily.
The dried inner skin of the stalks of
fibrous plants will also serve your purpose. When
working with pithy plants, such as dogbane and milkweed,
you may be able to strip the material you need from the
stalk in long ribbons. If the plant is dry, though,
you'd be better advised to crush and open up the stalk …
then break off short sections of the woody core, leaving
a long ribbon of fibers in your hand, If you come across
a supply of non-pithy plants, such as nettles and
rushes, the best way to remove the fibers is by placing
a dried stalk on a piece of wood and pounding it with a
rounded rock. (Don't use a sharp one, as it could cut
the fibers.)
Once you have a supply of raw
material, you'll have to decide how thick and long your
finished cordage will have to be. If all you need is
dental floss or a trap trigger, you might get by with
only a few fibers. In most cases, though, you'll want
something stronger... and strength is primarily the
result of wrapping fibers together. This will likely
require that you break down the original material a
little more than you have to this point.
If you're working with a ribbon of
bark or leaf material, roll it between your palms (for
better friction, dampen your skin) or against the leg of
your pants to separate the fibers. Work along the entire
length of the strip until you've gotten rid of any
nonfibrous matter and have a long, thin bundle of
"threads."
Twisting Fibers into Cordage

1) Start with a bundle of fibers
roughly the thickness that you want your finished
product. Tie these together at one end with a simple
overhand knot. Next divide the fibers into two equal
bundles and hang them on your left index finger so that
the knot is on your finger and the strands hang down
both sides. For clarity in the photos, half the strands
were dyed black.

2) Hold it securely with your left
hand and use your right hand to twist the fibers. Twist
the fibers of one strand...
3) ...and then the other both in the
same direction, and hold each strand securely.

4) The energy pent up in the fibers
wants to unravel, but if you hold the strands tight and
remove your left hand, pulling your finger out, then
that end, at the knot will twist around itself.
It will only twist this way a little
bit on its own.
5) You will have to help it along to
twist it tight.

6) Next, put your left index finger
between the strands again and repeat the process,
gaining a quarter to half an inch with each pass...

7) ...and make the cordage.
In order to make a long rope or
string, you can simply splice together as many shorter
pieces as necessary in the following way: First, twist
and kink the bundle so that one end is twice as long as
the other. (This will make it stronger.)
Then, using the reverse technique,
wrap to within an inch or two of the short end. Next,
separate the fibers of the short end with your fingers
(so they spread out like a broom).
Now, attach a second bundle of equal
thickness by spreading and fitting its fiber ends into
those of the first bundle. (To keep a uniform thickness
in the cord, cut out half of the fibers in each bunch
before pushing them together.)
Continue twisting and wrapping as
before, taking care not to pull the strands apart. When
you come to the end of the original long strand, add a
third piece... and so on. (Do make sure that you never
have two splices in the same place... a splice must
always be wrapped with a solid strand.)

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Bill Church is a certified WV
Master Naturalist; certified
herbalist; has trained with Tom
Brown (world renown tracker);
has published a book called
"Medicinal Plants, Trees, &
Shrubs of Appalachia"; and is a
network and computer specialist
at Glenville State College.
Bill has trained for many
years with as a tracker,
botanist, birder, learning about
animals, herbal medicine and
other things about nature. He
works full time as a Network and
Computer Specialist for
Glenville State College. He has
taken classes from some of the
countries most famous
Herbalists; (David Winston,
Rosemary Gladstar). He is of
Cherokee and English descent.
In 2005 Bill wrote and
published “Medicinal Plants,
Trees, & Shrubs of Appalachia”,
which lists 107 plants from the
Appalachian region, especially
Gilmer and the surrounding
counties. He is also
Co-coordinator for the Gilmer
County Master Naturalist
Association and has taught
classes on herbal medicine. Bill
has also taken training by the
world reknown tracker Tom Brown
in tracking and wilderness
survival.
Bill also setup and maintains
the website for the Gilmer
County Master Naturalist
Association and helped with the
website for the WV Herb
Association.
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